Himalaya Planning Diary
(See
also Himalaya Expedition 2018)
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
March 2018 - The idea
-
I decided impulsively to go to Nepal after hearing that I was going to get some
personal injury compensation money that would cover the whole expedition.
My wife was understanding but immediately concerned for my safety - everything
from cholera to crevasses continues to cross her mind.
-
Decided that I wanted to attempt the
much harder and far, far longer Three Passes Trek without flying to/from Lukla.
That did not actually reduce the amount of worry.
April 2018 - Admin
-
Sent off for a new passport as mine was way out of date.
-
Created an
itinerary
and realised that I needed 42 days in total, with 40 days in Nepal.
-
Bought my flight tickets way in advance to make sure of a good price and also to
make sure that I was compelled to push myself to get ready.
May 2018 - Prep
-
Started working on my kit list. Carrying everything yourself makes you yearn to
have a pack that weighs less than 8kg. I needed to decide; how I was going to supply
myself with clean water; how I was going to keep clean and healthy; how I was
going to keep warm by day and by night.
-
I decided to start running to get fit. I downloaded an app that promised to take
me from couch to 5k in 6 weeks. I wasn't quite starting from the couch being a
regular hiker but this was a start of my running. It went well and my stamina
improved every run.
-
Changed the
itinerary
to give myself more rest and acclimatisation days and a simplified plan for
seeing everything I wanted to see.
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
June - Start of
training
-
I quit my job. I can't
get 6 weeks off work to go to Nepal, plus I didn't want to work there anymore
anyway. I'd been there 2 years when I only meant to be there for a year, so time
was up. Now I can put all my energy into training and preparing.
-
Serious problems with my Achilles tendon and the underneath of my left foot. I had no
alternative but to stop running and tend to this injury. In fact I went from 2k
back to the couch!
Am I going to be able to do this hike or is it all over before it's even begun?
July - Repair
-
I now find out that I have a very tight calf muscle and policeman's heel on the
left foot. In fact, to get Latin on you, I have Achilles Tendonitis, Plantar Fasciitis and Peroneal tendon injury. The Achilles tendon has been under strain and has been micro-tearing
(yuck!). This has been caused by going at speed, up loads of steep hills, without
proper stretching beforehand, whilst being old.
The cure involves no running, no hiking up any steep hills for a while, wearing
a foot brace at night, stretching exercises, special insoles, pain relieving
gel, deep massage and slow strengthening of the calf muscles. It should improve slowly over
the next few months. It had better!
-
Training sessions every
day using a few phone apps. Great improvements to strength,
stamina and BMI. Fast, 2 mile 'yomps' with 12kg backpack every day. Sometimes
twice a day. I'm continuing with our weekly 10 mile hikes but we're doing
flat routes.
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
August 2018 - Shopping
and training!
-
The compensation cheque arrived and the shopping for all of the kit that I don't
already have has started. I wasn't about to cut corners with my comfort and
safety so the
equipment is both lightweight and extremely practical. The sleeping bag is
comfy to -25oC and the down jacket is guaranteed to keep me warm and
dry to 6000m. I am using a UV water purification system called a 'SteriPen
Classic 3' that is very lightweight and effective.
-
Sent off my new passport to the Nepalese Embassy in London to get the 90 day,
multi-entry visa for £75. It arrived back without a problem a week later.
-
My foot seems to be
improving but it is still painful when I exercise it.
-
Another major milestone -
I cut my hair! Until a couple of years ago it was literally down to my waist.
Since then it has started to thin a bit and a lot has been lost to motorcycling
and mountaineering, both infamously bad for your hair. To make things easier for
the Nepal trek and to give my hair a chance to repair I got it cut to collar
length. I do miss it but life is so much easier now. Trekking will be far
less stressful and I don't need to pack a brush nor hair bands.
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
September 2018 -
Amassing the kit
-
I booked a room in a
guest house in Kathmandu for my first night's stay. At least I know where I'm
heading now.
The hotel is on the quiet edge of the famous Thamel area, which is in the centre
of the city and is the international hub for trekkers.
Breakfast is included and I can eat it from the rooftop terrace and look out
over the city.
The guest house will pick me up from the airport and they are arranging my
onward bus tickets to Shivalaya. That all saves a lot of rushing around and
stress.
-
Equipment is still arriving from all over. Stuff in the post every day.
-
I paid for my travel
insurance which includes helicopter rescue - vital if you are going to this
hazardous place.
-
The Rab 'Valiance' down jacket is beautiful, so incredibly comfortable and
weighs virtually nothing (660g).
It's hard to believe that it will keep both the
arctic wind and the rain out. I can't wait until I need to wear it in anger.
-
The Rab 'Ascent 1100' sleeping bag is roomy and warm and seems to make you
instantly fall asleep when you get in it.
Like the
jacket it packs away very small. I admit to a penchant for Rab products. They're a
bit expensive but they really do the job.
-
Definite improvement in my foot ailment now. The tendon has been slowly and
gently stretched by the foot brace and the insoles are helping the policeman's
heel to recover. It may be hopelessly optimistic, but I think another 2 months of
treatment will have done the trick. What I mustn't forget is to give the other
foot some treatment too, as it may be developing the same trouble.
-
Sudden realisation that none of my Silva Compasses would work at Nepal's
latitude. The answer was to buy a compass that works all over the northern
hemisphere. I bought the Suunto M-3 NH Compass.
-
Training using the apps
is going extremely well and I am losing weight rapidly and growing muscles everywhere.
My core strength is far improved and that will be invaluable when the going gets
tough.
-
Most importantly, I've
managed to get all my kit into the dimensions for hand luggage (55cm x 35 x 25)
which means I don't have to let it out of my sight during my flights. That is a
great relief.
-
Bought a subscription
to Gaia GPS
for £15. It really is a powerful tool with so much detail. I've spent a lot of
time creating the separate routes for each day of my expedition and now all of
the navigation will be so much easier. GPS is available all over the Khumbu and
having this software to back up my map reading is just another layer of safety.
-
My wife is far happier
now that I'm not going to be trekking alone. This is Shackleton (named after my
inspiration) and he is coming with me.
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
October 2018
- Full-time training
-
I start the month
feeling physically ready despite knowing full well that most of the training for
the high altitude section of this trek will be undertaken during the 'walk in'.
All I can do in advance is get as fit as possible so that I can cope with the
flights, polluted Kathmandu, a long bus ride and a week of hard mountain
walking. If I am still moving after all that then I should have what it takes to
finish the entire trek.
-
I am lucky to have a
large park area with woodland right near my house. I have devised a 2 mile
course around it in a figure of eight shape and I have been walking round it
twice a day, at full speed with a 12 kg pack. My aim was to get my average speed
faster and I'm now managing a constant 4.2mph which, for a man of my stature, is
a real mad dash. It takes me 28 minutes and my ankle is still not complaining.
-
I keep looking at all
of my kit and it looks like something must be missing. All of that money spent
and there's almost nothing there! I expect that means that my packing list has
been successful. Everything is tiny and does 2 jobs. I will only know how well
I've planned when I get back but I know from previous trips that taking too much
is the biggest mistake. I am picking some things up in Kathmandu and others in
Namche Bazaar en route. Anything I find I don't need can be donated to worthy causes.
Anything missing from my list can always be bought in Nepal.
MasterLock TSA cable lock |
Optimus Titanium Spork - for eating
Dhal Bhat without using dirty hands. |
1 x 5L (red), 1 x 15L (green)
Lifeventure 'Ultralight' compression sacks |
Suunto M-3 NH Compass |
Nalgene Ultralite 1 Litre Wide Mouth
HDPE Bottle with filter |
Montane Ultra Tour 40 rucksack, S/M
Electric Blue |
Kathoula Microspikes |
Walking pole (buy in KTM) |
Maps (buy in KTM and Namche) |
Sony NP-BX1 InfoLITHIUM X Type
Rechargeable Battery for camera (spare) |
8 x AA Energizer Ultimate Lithium
batteries |
Spare 70GB memory for camera |
Headphones for phone |
SteriPEN Classic 3 |
Zendure A3 10,000 mAh Power pack |
Puffer for cleaning camera lens |
USB to European two pin adaptor |
USB to Indian three-pin adaptor |
Petzl 'E-light 2' Ultra compact
Headlamp with spare batteries. |
USB charging leads for camera, phone
and power pack (3 total) |
Rab 'Ascent 1100' down sleeping bag
in 15L compression sack |
2 pair Under Armour underwear black |
Rab 'Nucleus' Hoody, green |
Yoga trousers - base layer and for
teahouse wear |
Peter Storm down jacket, purple - in
stuff sack |
Berghaus 'Deluge' pants - waterproof
overtrousers |
Compression top, black |
Rab 'Valiance' waterproof down
jacket with stuff sack |
Rab 'Silkwarm' silk gloves |
1 pair Bridgedale Heavyweight Merino
Endurance Knee Sock, black, large |
Montane 'Prism' inner mittens |
Military goretex outer mittens,
extreme cold, olive green |
Montane 'Prism' Booties |
Berghaus Hydroshell Cap |
Buff x 2 (purple & green) |
Lightweight Poncho |
Worn/carried on person (not in pack) |
Under Armour underwear x 1 black |
1 pair Bridgedale Heavyweight Merino
Endurance Knee Sock, black, large |
UK size 9 Lowa 'Taurus GTX Midi'
Boots. Synthetic, Gore-Tex, lightweight. |
Rab 'Hunsa' Stretch Gaiters |
Brasher stretch trousers with belt. |
Pencil (H) with eraser |
Pencil sharpener, metal |
Reactolite Prescription Glasses,
cleaning cloth, soft case |
Peter Storm t-shirt black |
Protec Landscape Notebook Belt Pouch |
Protec Portrait Notebook Belt Pouch |
Timex Expedition watch with Indiglo
backlight |
Handkerchief. |
Wallet |
'Shackleton' |
Sony Cyber-shot HX60VB camera with
battery & 128gb memory |
Sony Xperia XZ1 Smartphone. |
Camera case and strap, chestnut PU
leather |
|
Health kit |
1 x 12 hour Voltarol (Diclofenac) 50g tube
2.32%. |
Toothpaste 30ml |
Sudocrem 30g - zinc oxide |
Immodium (Loperamide). 12 capsules |
Strepsils Sore Throat And Cough
Lozenges - 24 Lozenges |
2 Plastic bags for rubbish, shopping
etc |
Vitamin & mineral pills x 30 |
Compeed Extreme Medium Plasters x 24 |
Bandage & plasters |
Small nail clippers, stainless
steel. |
Gaffer tape |
Foam Earplugs x 4 packs |
Aquatabs® - Water Purification
tablets. 1 tablet per litre water x 50 |
Dry bag and toilet rolls |
Baby Wipes 40 |
Disposable Razor |
Travel Towel (cut in half) |
Highlander Active Wash soap - 50 sheets |
Toothbrush |
Painkillers |
SPF50 sun protection |
Lipbalm with sun
protection |
Pack total weight is
7.3kg.
A further nightmare! It
turns out that the only thing that is interfering with my ankle's recovery now
is the gear change mechanism on the
bike. It puts my foot at a bad angle and the
up and down movement when I change gear is making my Achilles Tendon complain. I
don't have the time, money or inclination to start messing around with the bike
before I go away, so the bike is off the road, put on a SORN and I won't be riding again until
I get back.
I don't know, this trip has already cost me all my money, my hair and now my
motorcycle - what next?! Oh yes, I remember: it's going to involve lots of pain
and suffering, lugging my tired old carcass up and over the Himalaya for 6
weeks.
Am I mad? Discuss.
Checked out my ankle by
taking a hike on the North Downs Way using some of the steepest routes we could
find. No problems at all going up or down and I didn't wake up to any pain the
following day. I haven't used any pain killing cream for a week now.
Now that my foot problem
is abating my training 'Yomps' are improving too. I am now carrying the 12 kg
pack at an average of 4.3 mph and today managed 4.4 over the 2 mile course. This
short, intense form of training seems to be an excellent way of quickly
obtaining strength and stamina without picking up further injuries.
As I'm not going to bother
shaving while in Nepal I've started to grow a beard now. This will get the itchy
stage out of the way and also mean that I should have some extra face insulation
by the time the snowline is met.
Oh my God! It's only 30
days 'till I have to get on a plane. It's too late to change my mind.
Spent the weekend in the
Brecons with
1st
Crawley Scout Group and it all went very well. There was some snow
flurries and very low temperatures but the kids all managed Corn Du, Pen Y Fan
and Cribyn. Personally I was very pleased with my fitness level and very happy
that my ankle didn't play up at all. I found myself running uphill on several
occasions and my legs coped far more easily than they had in the past. Even so I'm cranking my training up a notch as now is the time (1
month to go) to put on some weight as well as more muscle. I will soon drop the
former once in Nepal but I need to try and hold onto the latter. For example, I
lost a quarter of a stone in the two days we were in the Brecons.
I end the month feeling
fitter, leaner and stronger than I have been for many years. My ankle is more or
less fixed.
I am packed. Everything is sorted out. I don't think I've forgotten anything and
my pack is very light.
It's a very satisfying feeling.
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
November 2018
- Almost time to go!
3 weeks to go before I
leave my wife and home for 6 long weeks, including Christmas. Part of me feels
very guilty for that but unfortunately as
John Muir is often quoted as saying, 'The mountains are calling and I must
go'.
Alternating my morning
leg exercising between 120 squats one day and a yomp the next. Yesterday's yomp
was the fastest so far (4.5mph) and the squats today were only mildly painful.
One would hope that all this intensive strain without incident means that I am
not likely to drop dead with a heart attack on route. Still, better to go to the
'great nature reserve in the sky' via the Himalaya than from my dismal local
hospital.
Beard is now in the
itchy stage and despite my training having knocked years off my face to expose
my 'boyish good looks' (discuss) the grey whiskers now sprouting chaotically all
over my face have all but reversed the effect. My down jacket is 'steel grey' in
colour and now my face matches it. My only hope is that by the end I look a bit
more distinguished rather than totally extinguished!
All my clothing has
been washed and treated to make it breathable, wickable and waterproof again.
All the equipment has been tested and approved.
My training and
planning so far has been very determined and focussed but it is now all but
done. Now, with 2 weeks to go, I need to relax and get into the frame of mind
and pace of life that I want to sustain through my trek. That isn't so easy as
life still goes on as normal and will do while I am away.
Make that 150 squats!
Forget that, I'm up
over
200 reps in one rapid set and I possibly need an intervention! My theory is that
if I suffer lots of pain now, my suffering will be less on the mountains. I know
from experience that is true, however, the main driving force, the source of all
the stamina is still the mind. You need focus, determination, a fair amount of
true grit and above all, good morale. I like walking uphill - call me mad but
it's true.
Tested out my new legs
on the north face of Wolstonbury Hill - OK, it's only a small hill on the South
Downs but I don't have the option of a mountain in Sussex! However, the north
side is as vertical as you want to walk and a bloomin' good short test for leg
and ankle. I was left feeling very confident, which is just as well as there's
only a week to go now. Gulp!
Last things to do;
Change my spending money into cash, confirm flight, inform bank and phone
company of my travel plans, get myself to Heathrow, do not have panic attack on
the flight.
Final two bits of
responsibility - Give a presentation about my planned trip to the Scouts and the
day after give the same presentation to the Beavers & Cubs.
That's it - all the
planning is done and I leave tomorrow. I'm very excited and so are all the kids
at 1st Crawley. I think they are looking forward to seeing photos of Shackleton
in some remarkable places but they're a bit concerned I'll bump into a yeti.
TTFN XX
Jan 12th 2019
I've been back just over a week and the jet lag has now gone. My knees are still
very sore and full recovery is going to take at least another week but who cares
about all that! Nepal was even more than I could have dreamed of. I walked
nearly every day in beautiful solitude through the most wonderful countryside
and incredible mountains. The weather was perfect nearly every day, the people
were just as perfect and the culture of the country was fascinating, exotic and
strange. Temperatures ranged from 32C to -25C and I climbed over 4km straight
up! Covering a total of over 200 miles completely wore out my boots but the
trail, altitude, temperatures and sheer exertion wore out the rest of me.
Without so much training beforehand this trek would have without doubt been
impossible. Not only do the trails go up so steeply every day but you have the
altitude to deal with which makes such a huge difference. Don't think that
because you have acclimatised you can forget about the lack of oxygen.
Acclimatisation only means that the altitude won't kill you - it doesn't mean
that you won't be affected by it. On top of that the temperatures are so low that
breathing in can be very uncomfortable. The air is also dry so you find that you
are thirsty a lot of the time. What you don't want to do is get out of breath,
so you walk very, very slowly while using as little energy as possible.
Continuing very slowly is much better than the alternative which is: walking
normally for 10 metres, stopping, gasping for air/panting for a
minute or so and then repeating.
I will be updating the website ASAP but with about 1500 media files to go
through it's going to take a little while but here's a couple of shots to keep
you going.
Take the time to read
the
countryside code for yourself and please stick to it at all times.
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