Scrapbook ~ Wildlife walks throughout the year
24th November 2018 - 4th January 2019
40 days alone in the
Walk in from Shivalaya - Namche - Chukkhung - Kongma La - Everest Base Camp - Gokyo Valley
- Gokyo Ri - 4th Lake - Renjo La - Namche - Walk out to Paphlu.
About 220 miles
Highest point: Kala Patthar 5644m (18,500ft)
Three weeks later and my legs
recovering from this mammoth expedition. Two months later and my mind is still in the mountains.
From beginning to end the whole trek was incredible. I spent most days walking
almost entirely alone, in glorious weather and the Nepalese people were kind, generous and a
true inspiration in so many ways. The culture is so exotic and strange that you
are either constantly learning something new or standing with your mouth open,
gawping at something you've never seen before.
My only companion was
our 1st Crawley scout
who became a bit of a favourite among the hundreds of people who followed our
journey on WhatsApp. He came from a Teddy Tombola at
West Sussex that the troop visited on a hike a couple
of weeks before my expedition.
Despite being crowded and terribly polluted, Kathmandu has a wonderful
charm and I fell completely in love with it. The people are so good-natured and
polite, they help each other out and there is a real community spirit.
Nowhere is this more evident than on the roads. Everyone pulls out in front of
everyone else, the traffic all meets head on at intersections, no one uses
indicators or hand signals, everyone is on the phone and people travel at night
with no lights on. Even so there is no road rage or even descriptive hand
signals. Everything just keeps rolling along somehow, through the throng of road
users which includes: cows, pedestrians, packs of dogs, rickshaws, trucks,
pushbikes and millions of small motorbikes. Everyone in Kathmandu has a
motorbike and they travel everywhere - footpaths, parks, alleyways,
courtyards... if a bike can get down there, then there will be bikes there. They
only very slightly follow any type of Highway Code or law, which makes tearing
around the city at 40mph about as exciting and dangerous as racing at the Isle
of Man TT.
My trek started with an
8 day walk from Shivalaya to Namche Bazaar and every part of it was beautiful
with wildlife everywhere, fruit orchards, large valleys, suspension bridges,
terraced hills and welcoming places to stay in small villages. There are a lot
of mule trains running back and forth supplying all of the villages and moving
things up to Namche and they are a bit smelly. The trail is difficult and is
either going straight up or straight down, it is mostly over rock and it is
completely covered in mule poo. Roads (mud tracks) are being built to supply the
villages but this does not ruin the walk and you do not have to walk very far on
The higher places after
Namche, are extremely cold (I went in winter and some nights were -30C)
and you need to be prepared with proper clothing and a really good sleeping bag.
A plan for acclimatising to the altitude is essential and as of 2019 you
will need about £20 a day to live up there (in the middle hills things are a bit
cheaper and in Kathmandu food and accommodation are very cheap). All of the
teahouses dish up huge plates of food and you will need to eat all of it to get
enough calories for the next day's walk. Purifying your own water is the best
way to go as it saves money and the environment. I used a
and found it worked perfectly for the whole 6 weeks.
I acclimatised by
taking a rest at Namche and another at Dengboche and by climbing part of the way
up Nangkart Shang and then Chhukhung Ri. Both climbs went well but every
move you make is such hard work at those altitudes. The mountains and the mountain trails are literally breath-taking - you need to learn to go at Himalaya speed (very slowly) and breathe faster (usually through
a buff) to cope with the altitude and the freezing cold, dry air. Failure to do
so leads to gasping and giddiness! I trained very hard to do this trek
and was very glad that I did as it made things far easier, as did a pack that
weighed about 8kg.
The first of the three passes, the
Kongma La, is an incredible days trek. The climb itself is long, hard and
difficult but the views from the top are the ultimate. You have to get through a
dangerous scree slope to descend and then you have the Khumbu Glacier to get
over. It took all of my experience to manage it all before the clouds came down
and the terrible cold set in.
The next stage was to
travel north to climb Kala Pattar and visit Everest base Camp (EBC). This
section is usually crowded with people but during the winter it is very quiet.
The view of Everest and Nuptse and the glacier from the top of Kalla Patta is
outstanding and I had clear views of Everest's summit. There was only one other
person there and he left me to myself to take in the view I'd waited a lifetime
to see, after taking a snap of me and Shackleton.
Most people head back
down to Lukla from here and get a plane back to Kathmandu but I was still only
halfway through my trek. Next was a few days walk to Dzongla where I would rest
and get ready for the next pass:
Everyone asks me the
same question; would I do it again? My answer is always the same - 'In a
I arrived early evening at the Thamel
district of Kathmandu - disorientated, tired and confused.
The Three Passes Trek. But before that I
was going to walk to Namche Bazaar from Shivalaya
About 8 days walk and it was fascinating the whole way. So quiet and beautiful.
Milk tea at the top of Paiya La. The word
'La' means high mountain pass and I had about 11 of them to get over during this
Earthquake damage was evident all along
this early route. It bore the brunt of it.
Mules. These ones had decided to leave
their porters and find their own way home.
Lots of calories are needed for mountain
Momos for dinner
at the village of Jumbesi.
The monastery at Thubtan Cholin where I
was mesmerised by the chanting of the monks.
I've never heard anything so amazing in my life and I could have lived there for
In the kitchen for 'pig soup'.
A Musk Deer on the trail. It seemed as
interested in me, as I was in it.
There are plenty of high suspension bridges to cross and this famous one is the last
The Sherpa burn Juniper every morning as
part of their Buddhist rituals.
Namche Bazaar - the capital of the Khumbu
region. The air is already very thin by the time you get here.
I still had 2km to go: straight up!
I gave myself 3 days at Namche to rest up,
clean up and acclimatise.
I also took the opportunity to buy some down-filled leggings which proved to be
My teahouse in Namche. I was the only
guest for my entire stay.
Tengboche monastery which is stunning and in an incredible spot.
Shackleton meditating on Nangkart Shang near Chhukhung. Climbing up here was
part of my acclimatisation plan.
From up on Chhukhung Ri (another hill for
acclimatisation) looking out over 3
After a difficult climb I gain the Kongma
La and have someone to share my lunch with.
Kongma La looking down to the Khumbu glacier with the village of Lobuche beyond.
The moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. It's
much bigger than it looks and I was already worn out by the time I got to it.
On the glacier and I needed all my experience to get through here safely, as the path
I made it to Lobuche with very little
energy left. I didn't know it but I was coming down with a cold.
Everest from the top of Kala Pattar. If you get a tear in your eye it's likely to freeze.
Shackleton and me at 5,644m (18,500 ft)
with a great view of Everest.
Although it is very hard work trekking at such altitudes you tend to forget
about the hardship every time you stop and look at the views.
Everest Base Camp at the foot of the
I had always wanted to see the icefall and even at a distance it is very
impressive. An ambition achieved!
Fresh snowfall at Dzongla stopped me from crossing
the perilous Chola Pass
so I needed to drop 1.5km vertically down to Pheriche
and then back up the Gokyo valley to Gokyo to continue on my route.
Heading back down to Pheriche on my 4-day
detour to Gokyo.
After a day's hike through the snow, ice
and white-outs, myself and two other escapees from Dzongla were happy to be safe and drinking tea.
The village of Gokyo with Cho Oyu behind
it. Back on my planned route again.
The views from Gokyo Ri are mind-blowing.
You can see the village of Gokyo between the frozen lake and the Ngzumba
After about a month of trekking and looking rather weather-beaten.
Leaving Gokyo and heading up to the Renjo
La, the last pass.
It's up there somewhere!
Made it! It's all downhill back to Namche
As it turned out, this part of the trek was beyond beautiful. It was out of this
world and I walked through it in a dream-like state.
After walking back from Namche to Paphlu
(3 days) I took a 12 hour jeep ride back to Kathmandu which was very
The Great Stupa at Boudah, near Kathmandu.
The Monkey Temple at dusk.
The Buddha in 'earth witness' pose.
Deekshya and Subigya who took such special
care of me in Kathmandu.
Love to you, my friends. XX
I shall add some more
pictures so check back soon.
Take the time to read
countryside code for yourself and please stick to it at all times.